A while back our pal, Daniel Cope, gave us a great fly tying step by step on his go-to pattern for coastal steelhead; the Steelhead Phantam. For those who don’t know Daniel, he’s one heck of a fly tyer. He’s also a frequenter of our humble little blog, so naturally we were honored when he agreed to put together some step by step tying posts for us.
Today, Dan is back with tying instructions on another great pattern that’s not only easy and inexpensive to tie, but also draws off some of the most effective patterns for salmon and steelhead in the game. It’s called the ‘Stain Remover’ and we think you’d best spin up a few of your own.
See how below!
The Stain Remover – Tying Instructions
Charles St. Pierre’s Hoh Bo Spey is one of my all-time favorite flies. The medium profile, simple construction, and combination of highly mobile materials is appealing not only to fly tyers and anglers of all skill levels, but pretty much every fish that’ll chase a swung fly in Alaska as well.
In an attempt to incorporate even more mobile materials and simplify construction further, I developed a pattern that not only works well as on its own, but lends itself to the versatility of stacking with the all hailed Hoh Bo Spey for a larger intruder style profile. Building upon materials and methods presented on the Deneki blog by Stuart Foxall, old intruder standards like grizzly saddle hackle wings, and more contemporary materials like Hareline’s predator wrap for even more movement (it’s not just for composite loops!), the Stain Remover covers all the bases.
- Tube: 1.5″ Small Clear HMH Tubing (can be tied on shanks as well).
- Thread: 6/0 Uni-Thread, fluorescent orange.
- Tag: UTC Opal Mirage Tinsel, large.
- Dubbing Ball: Hareline 5/8″ Frizzle Chenille, fluorescent pink.
- Flash: Hareline Predator Wrap, speckled gold.
- Shoulder: Hareline Intruder Prop Hackle, shrimp pink.
- Feelers: Lady Amherst tail fibers, natural.
- Wing: Saddle hackles, grizzly orange.
- Hackle: Spey marabou, fluorescent pink.
A few notes about weight and stacking. I usually start with a longer tube than necessary in case I decide to add a cone or bead to the fly. If I choose to leave the fly unweighted, I often leave a longer than necessary section of tube at the head in order to join two files together with a length of junction tubing in case I decide that I need a larger profile.