Just a cool picture from a guy who can fish pretty good too.
Today’s post is about using spey lines on switch rods, including some background on why you probably should cut a line for your rod, and the steps you can take to do just that. It’s written for people who have a bit of spey casting experience.
First, a disclaimer that today we’re mainly talking about using switch rods for spey casting. Although switch rods are designed specifically to be cast overhead as well as spey cast, we generally think of them as little spey rods, and that’s how we line them and fish them.
Right about 5 years ago, the first commercial Skagit spey lines hit the angling world. Anglers found that these lines had some great benefits, particularly in fisheries involving sink tips and bigger flies – Skagit lines just made it a lot easier to fish those setups, for beginning and experts two-handed casters alike.
The original Skagit lines had no front taper to speak of – they were basically just thick, level fly line in the head section. Over the past couple of years, ‘2nd generation’ Skagit heads have hit the market – the Airflo Skagit Compact and the Rio Skagit Flight are the best-known examples. These new Skagit heads have a real front taper and more mass concentrated near the back of the head, which makes for a much better performing line all around – loops are much tighter, flies get turned over easier, and less-than-perfect D-loops still produce decent casts. Skagit heads with real tapers are just better.
Here’s the problem – since switch rods are shorter than full spey rods, they require shorter heads, and nobody makes switch-rod-sized modern Skagit heads with real tapers. So what’s an angler to do? Simple – buy a modern Skagit head and cut it down so it’s the right size for your switch rod.
As of today, chances are your two choices are the Airflo Skagit Compact and the Rio Skagit Flight. The project that we’re going to use as our example created a line match between the Scott Fiberhammer and an Airflo Skagit Compact.
Picking which weight to start with is not terribly scientific, but our logic basically goes like this.
- Most anglers like heads in the 17 to 20-foot range for Skagit-style casting on switch rods.
- Depending on the head, that might mean that you’re shooting to cut it about 20% shorter (e.g. taking a 25-foot head down to 20 feet). These heads are tapered so their mass isn’t evenly distributed, but for a real, real rough ballpark you could guess that you’re also going to take out 20% of the grain weight.
- Using whatever means you can (input from other anglers, casting full-length heads), guess at what your ‘target’ grain weight for your cut line is, and do the math. In our example, we had cast the Fiberhammer with a 450 grain full-length Skagit head and thought that, while it was too long, the load seemed about right. So we started with a 570 grain Airflo Skagit Compact, because taking 20% of the mass out of that would land us somewhere near 450 grains when we were done.
How To Cut Your Head
Be careful! It’s impossible to ‘un-cut’ a fly line. Go slow and cut in small increments.
1. Cast the full length head first.
Note that if you picked the head correctly, the full length head is going to massively overload the rod. Go slow and be careful. Why take this step? Simple – if the rod isn’t massively overloaded you picked the wrong head, and this will prevent you from ruining a head by chopping blindly to start.
2. Cut a foot off the back of the head and cast it again.
Use a measuring tape and a pair of scissors, and cut cleanly. This process requires taking a bunch of cutting/testing steps, so to keep things relatively quick, with each new line length we just use an overhand knot to tie the back of the head to a loop in the running line. Really – an overhand knot in your fly line. Do this at your own risk, obviously – the ‘safe’ way to test would be to make a real loop on the back of the head each time, but we don’t have that kind of time.
3. Keep taking off 1 foot increments and casting until you’re in the ballpark.
When you feel like the rod is starting to cast pretty well but is still overloaded, maybe drop down to 6 inch increments.
4. When you’re getting close, go slow.
…and err on the side of not cutting! As you take mass out of the head, your rod should speed up and start to ‘come alive’. When you’re done is up to you!
5. Make a real loop on the back of the head.
…once you settle on a the length that you like. We like braided loops for this, and we’ve found that cutting a little point in the back of the head will allow you to slide the loop over the head much more easily.
In our project matching the Fiberhammer to the 570 grain Skagit Compact, we started with a 25 foot head, and cut 2 feet, then 2 feet and then 1 foot to land at a 20 foot, 480 grain head.
It’s a little bit of work, but matching a modern Skagit head to your switch rod is likely to make your time on the water easier and a heck of a lot of fun.
More On Spey Tech
Tom Larimer has guided for more than a decade in the Great Lakes, Alaska and Oregon. He currently owns and operates Larimer Outfitters, one of the premier guide services in the Northwest.
He also happens to like fishing on the Kanektok and the Dean. In addition to his hosted week at Alaska West in June of 2010, Tom’s hosting a group at BC West on the Dean in August of 2010 (which amazingly has a couple of spots open – drop us a line to learn more).
When Tom walks about of his cabin at BC West on August 7th and grabs a rod to take fishing, this is the rig he’s going to be grabbin’.
NOTE: This post is from 2009. For the updated version of what Tom’s fishing in 2013, check out this update. Gear has changed!
- Burkheimer 8139-3
- Ross Momentum LT 7
- Airflo Skagit Compact, 600 grains
- 30 pound dacron backing attached to the spool with an arbor knot
- Airflo Ridgeline running line, attached to the backing with an albright knot, sealed with superglue
- Skagit Compact head attached to front of the running line using factory loops and a loop-to-loop connection
- Airflo Custom Cut 200 and 330 tips, cut to 12 foot lengths attached to the head using factory loops and a loop-to-loop connection
- Loop created in the front end of the custom cut tip by stripping off the coating and tying a perfection loop in the mono core
- 3 to 6 feet of 12 pound Maxima Ultragreen leader, attached to the front end of the tip using a triple surgeon’s loop and a loop-to-loop connection
- Solitude Reverse Marabou Intruder tube fly
- Owner SSW hook, size 2, tied to the leader using a non-slip mono loop
- “A lot of the time I adjust my depth more by changing flies than by changing sinktips. I’ll have some heavier bugs in my box for fishing deeper.”
- “If I’m fishing an unweighted tube I fish a shorter leader because you’re really relying on the sink rate of the tip at that point – not the weight of the fly. For weighted flies I’ll step up to a little longer leader because I can get the fly to sink faster with a longer leader. That weighted fly will sink faster than the sinktip will.”
More On Steelhead Gear
Tom Larimer runs one of the premier guide services in the Northwest. He’s a super dude, an incredible angler and teacher, and…you guessed it, he’s one of our spey hosts during our king season at Alaska West.
- Burkheimer 10130-3 – That’s right, 13 feet for a 10 weight.
- Ross Momentum LT 7
- Airflo Skagit Compact, 720 grains
- 30 pound dacron backing attached to the spool with an arbor knot
- Airflo Ridge Tactical Running line, attached to the backing using an Albright knot, coated with Zap-A-Gap
- Skagit Compact 720 attached to the factory loop on the front of the running line using a loop-to-loop connection
- Airflo Custom Cut 330 tip cut to 12 feet, attached to the Skagit Compact using the factory loops and a loop-to-loop connection
- Loop created in the leader end of the tip by stripping the coating off the end of the tip and tying a perfection loop into the core
- 4 feet of 15 pound Maxima Ultragreen, attached to the perfection loop on the front of the sinktip using a triple surgeon’s knot and a loop-to-loop connection
- Solitude Reverse Marabou Intruder tube fly (available this winter) slid onto the leader
- Owner SSW hook, size 1, tied to the leader using a non-slip mono loop
- “When I pull the fly out of tension, I want it to drop quickly. Using that stripped off end of the sinktip and a straight leader, versus using a butt section, enables the fly to sink. The idea is that by having a straight leader, as soon as you take the fly out of tension, the fly will sink a lot quicker than the sinktip will. With a Skagit head, you don’t need to have a tapered leader. You’re much better off getting the fly down quickly. Halfway through the week at Alaska West this year, that really hit me. By fishing tips that were shorter but heavier, I started hooking a lot more adults by getting the fly into the troughs.”
More On King Fishing On The Kanektok
Over the past couple of months, we’ve posted the two-handed rigs of six guys who spend a lot of time at Alaska West swinging flies for king salmon. There’s a wealth of information, and a wide range of opinions, in these posts.
If you’re headed to Alaska West this summer, or if you like spey fishing, or king salmon, or steelhead, you should have a look at how the best in the business set themselves up when they swing flies on two-handed rods in pursuit of big chrome anadromous fish.
If you’d like to learn more about spey fishing for kings, why not join these guys on the Kanektok River for one of our spey instruction weeks? Contact the experts to learn more.